Wine review

ONE of the great pleasures of wine is the broad spectrum of flavours that they possess. The type of grape variety used, obviously, has by far the greatest impact on the resulting flavour of the wine. However, there are many factors at work too - vinification process, soil type and local conditions ("terroir"), vintage variation and when the grapes were picked, oak age and bottle age, blending with other varieties etc.

Other than grape variety, climate is probably the next most important factor in determining the flavor of a wine. To best demonstrate this, let us consider the chardonnay grape variety as grown in France (you can try this at home if you like) in three different wine regions.

Probably the best example of French cool climate chardonnay is Chablis in the north of Burgundy. Try Tesco Finest Chablis at 7.99 which displays high natural acidity, citrus, apple and pear aromas and flavours and feels very dry.

Less than 100 miles further south, and also in Burgundy, lies the Maconais sub region whose wines are chardonnay based too. Try Marks & Spencer Macon Villages 2009 on offer at 5.99 (usually 7.99) or Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay from Tesco (2 for 15). The climate here is moderate and warmer so the grapes ripen better. The wines are softer and fruitier with the characteristics of white stone fruit (peach) and melon and a buttery texture.

If we travel another 200 miles further south to the Vins du Pay d'Oc the climate is Mediterranean and very much warmer. Here the grapes ripen fully and the resultant wines are creamy and full. Try M&S Gold Label Chardonnay for 6.99. Chardonnay here has a tropical fruit feel to it with pineapple, banana and mango too.

Just for the record you may wrongly assume that chardonnay is the world's most planted grape variety. However in Jancis Robinson's Guide to Wine Grapes it ranks a lowly 11th!

by Paul Abraham